My Least Favorite Street to Drive in L.A.

Third Avenue starting East at Fairfax

Remember the Farmer's Market? A sleepy collection of open stalls, tent coverings, and food stands from the 1940's? Between sleepy Pan Pacific Park and sleepy Park La Brea (Metropolitan Life Housing Development)? An 1830's abode built by Antonio Jose Rocha lay in back?

Gone. Well not really, only it's been engulfed by this monster retail development called the Grove. And I hate it. I hate non street oriented retail, and the studio high walls along Third Avenue make me seethe.

Driving? Don't. Who did the traffic studies? Walking? Don't. You'll be asphyxiated by idling exhaust.

I have fantasies of skipping over lanes, in a boosted Navigator (maybe two wrongs can make a right), slamming into the fortress-like facade, invoking a rain of plaster dust and high end gift bags.

No one gets hurt, fundamentalists get blamed.

My Favorite Street to Drive in L.A.

Vermont Boulevard south of Gage.

Yeah, I like driving San Vicente between LaBrea and LaCienega, and not just because it leads into South Carthay. I enjoy the almost teleportational pace, the wide median, and the sprinkling of corner stores.

Silver Lake Boulevard is a favorite for some, the Lautner-lined reservoir, with cyclists, joggers and walkers filling out the park-like scene. It's too brief for me.

The canyon passes don't make my list, there's too much driving to be done, too little good architecture, and the single lane is a lollygag limiter.

The gumball rally pace of PCH North towards the Palisades and Malibu is a turn off. The Palos Verdes/Portuguese Bend pass-through is pleasant, but in part because San Pedro and Long Beach lie beyond.

Sunset Boulvard West out of downtown is a treat. Brick store fronts, grimy billboards, and splashes of color, interspersed between towering embankments of green. An uncertain course of rolling hills through pockets of density with distinct services.

Ah, but Vermont Boulevard South of Gage.





Sure part of it's getting there, fighting through close quarters in Vermont Square, through the Slauson hub-bub, into the eight-lane clear. An enormous median (a former rail right-of-way) is planted with (mostly) husky pine trees. Slip roads (short roads to separate through-traffic from commercial cruisers) are employed as well, creating a wonderful auto intensive commercial corridor.



Run down to Imperial Highway, stop off at Jim Dandy chicken (get the five piece special), pull off into the well-kept Magnolia Square neighborhood, or Athens on the Hill, mostly check out the Streamline moderne architecture. Probably the greatest landmark is the former Hattem's Shopping Center at 8021 - 8035 (1931, Walter Hagedohm architect). There's some likeable infill next door of the neo deco variety. At 87th, the Nation of Islam regional headquarters are in a towering cinema with beaux arts detailing.




The only thing better than driving South bound, is driving North bound.

Jefferson Park Hot Spots

Jefferson Park is bounded by Western (on the East), Crenshaw on the West, Exposition on the South, and Adams Avenue on the North.

While these largely commercial corridors (as well as the bi-secting Jefferson Blvd.) look at points ragged and forlorn, they nonetheless feature a few useful businesses and worthwhile destinations.

Hardware Stores: In addition to specialty plumbing (Hirsch) and electrical retailers, Jefferson Park boasts two good general purpose hardware stores: Tak's (with an emphasis on gardening supplies) at Jefferson and Norton, and a family run Ace on Crenshaw just South of Adams. A building materials yard (CBM) can be found on Exposition at 10th, and a flooring supplies store, called Old Masters is on 2nd Ave between Exposition and Rodeo.

Restaurants: Crenshaw Boulevard hosts two celebrated bar b-que joints, Phillips and Tasty-Q. The acclaimed Harold & Bell's, a high end Creole establishment (at 2920 Jefferson) has served up big portions since 1969. Aunt Rosa Lee's Mississippi Soul Food is located in a strip mall along Western Blvd, between 27th & 28th. Choice Cuts, a meat market at 333 Jefferson, also serves lunch. Joan and Sister Belizean restaurant is on Western near 36th. Johnnie's near Adams and Mont Clair is renowned for their Pastrami and is open late.

Libraries: Two unique institutions are located on either side of Grammercy, at Adams Avenue. The Clark Library, which also hosts a popular chamber music series, houses the special collection for the University of California, and can be visited by appointment. In the rear of the Britt Mansion, the Amateur Athletic Association keeps an all sports library open to the public. A local LA branch library, with a special emphasis on African-American authors, is on Jefferson, next to Shaw Park at 2nd Avenue.

Specialty stores: Antique Stove Restoration, at Western and Exposition, offers an amazing selection of vintage stoves. Port Royal, antiques and bric-a-brac, is at 3128 Jefferson. Bryant's nursery, small and accessible, is on Jefferson near Cimarron.

Barber shops and 99 cent stores are too numberous to list. Lou Marnie dry cleaners is located on Jefferson, near 2nd. Houses of worship abound, as do party supply stores. Crenshaw Boulevard features fast food, banks, and drug stores.

Not In My Side Yard

Most Americans, I think, have become more accepting of ethnic integration.

It's generally no longer the case that when Sam from Senegal moves in next door, Frederick from Finland looks to pull stakes. A lot of folk even like the idea of having a family from the Seychelles living on one side and a bachelor from Bavaria on the other--particularly if it makes for better neighborhood eateries.

But now economic integration, that's another matter. Sure we don't mind holing up next to a mansion, playing low man on the economic totem, but a tent city in the corner empty lot--that's another story, and the SRO's--they gotta go! The poor, nobody wants 'em. No wonder they get exiled to vertical straight-jackets, herded into narrow urban corrals.

Am I trying to be an advocate for the "underclass"? Not exactly. But I am in favor of more housing choices--'cause there ain't many. You got your garden variety house, apartment, or....sleep on the beach and get a citation. As if the hippie burn-out wrapped in the moving blanket is slumming it, practicing some sort of civil disobedience, or researching a movie role. More likely, he was rip-sawed by an unforgiving economic system, or plagued by Gulf War syndrome, lacked family support, and caught a bad break.

Single Room Occupancy hotels and Tenement Housing are frequently deplored, a thing to be eradicated in order to achieve a higher standard. But is the housing really to blame, and in the absence of it where will people go? Shiny new condos in Newhall? I kinda doubt it. You might be able "to price" people out of a neighborhood, but you can't price them out of existence and even if you could, would you want to?

A Short Primer on Jefferson Park

The Jefferson Park neighborhood straddles either side of Jefferson Blvd, from Western to Crenshaw, and from Adams (on its North) to Exposition (on its South).

The Eastern end of the neighborhood is dominated architecturally by single-story largely Craftsman-style bungalows. Approaching Crenshaw, the development pattern changes, transitioning into the ubiquitous Spanish/Mediterranean Revival Styles of the 1920s, with a small offering of Colonial Revivals.

Nearly all of Jefferson Park's Craftsman-style bungalows, for which the neighborhood is reknown, were built between 1905 and 1915. Frequently homeowners themselves built two or three, lived in one, and sold off the others. Despite these varied origins, 100 years of style changes and remodelling fads, an unusually intact, cohesive streetscape remains.

Even with their multitudinous details, the houses were built at an average cost of $2,000, usually from plans purchased in catalogues; and, frequently with mass produced elements (doors, windows, picture rail moldings, etc). Smaller in size than costlier homes of the era (most J-Park bungalows are 1300 - 1500 sq. ft.), these houses nonetheless featured most of the same materials, hardware, carpentry and decorative details as their up-market bretheren. Sadly in today's home building world, it is no longer the case that houses for the rank and file are imbued with the same quality finishes as those garnered by the elite. But such was the case in 1909.

Befitting the Arts & Crafts philosophy, social equality and cultural diversity has long been a hallmark in "The Bungalows". The neighborhood once boasted a substantial Jewish population (there are two former synagogues on Jefferson Blvd). Later, it became a mecca for Japanese residents, as evidenced by some landscaping features, former businesses, and long-time residents. A substantial African-American population, many with a Louisiana connection, have formed a key group. Hispanic immigrants have added to the mix, while Western Blvd. has become the spine of a Belizean community. Arts professionals, some with Architectural or planning related careers, also abound.

In concert with the West Adams Heritage Association, "J. Park" has staged well attended, bi-annual house tours. Interest in the centrally-located neighborhood is intensifying, perhaps related to the re-birth of "surface street close" downtown, galloping gas prices, and the upcoming Exposition light rail line. Home prices have climbed into the mid $600's, with interest high and inventory low.

Coming soon: Jefferson Park hot spots

The Wife and Kid are Gone--Hurry Work on the House

They took off for a couple days, to the Sierras, with my brother-in-law.

Some guys would probably spread out on the sofa, watch steel cage matches with an order of ribs. Or two orders of ribs. Stag time, right?!

Instead, I set up a couple of saw horses, and popped the front door off.

The interior finish had been bothering me, the stain was murky, the top coat a bit too glossy; moreover, the bottom third wasn't stained at all. Inexplicably, it was painted a mahogany color. Out came the masterstrip, steel wool, rubber gloves, Fein sander and vac.

Top photo is stripped and sanded, the beginnings of a coat of Benjamin Moore stain.

Second photo is a close-up of some screamin' quarter-sawn grain, after two coats of stain, and two coats of varnish.

It's the kind of project that's hard to do with others around, the front door off for eight hours. The animals have to be sequestered. You've got to able to work late, under bright lights, plus marine varnishes have a long drying time.

How rewarding. Now the next time they go away I will get some ribs, only there's some work I want to do in my den......

2082 W. 29th Place

I've been away from the blog for a few days, in part to prepare a new listing, hunkering down to write pro forma copy, and folksy intros to neighbors.

Here's my first pass, which we've ultimately decided is a little too unconventional for the very conventional sales audience. Oh well, at least I can use it here. Got any questions about this bitchin' bungalow? Write me or call me.

The Roseen house, 1905

Uncommonly Detailed Bunglow in Surging Jefferson Park

What accounts for the overwhelming concentration of Arts related professionals in J-Park? Is it the location, minutes from the cultural colossus of downtown, within striking distance of Culver City, ¼ mile from the 10 freeway, and walking distance to the MTA’s upcoming Expo Line?

Is it the architecture, boasting the greatest selection and representation of bungalows built in the Arts & Crafts era in all of Southern California?

Is it the rapidly advancing esprit de corps, buttressed by a fraternity of neighbors, long time block clubs, and gung ho grass roots-ers?

But we ain’t just selling a neighborhood! Come tour this singular beauty, bursting with wonderous period detail. Every spacious room is extended by large, multi-light windows and enhanced by rich woodwork and complex moldings. Master carpenter quality original built-ins with elaborate art glass, remarkable box beam ceilings, and timeless original light fixtures dress an old house lover’s dream offering.


2 beds, plus den
Pocket doors
Decorative wood burning fireplace
Two-car garage
6,200 sq. ft. lot
Wrap around front porch
Butler’s pantry
Gentleman Caller’s bench
Mature Trees
1,528 sq. ft

Emard House Attic

Are they discussing pin placement?


Los Angeles City records prior to 1905, are notoriously spotty. In the case of the Emard house, built in 1904, the assessor attibutes 3,037 square feet. Yet the owner's estimate is closer to 3700. Why the discrepancy? Unpermitted ad-ons? Porch enclosures? Fortunately not.

Most likely the original assessment failed to include the mammoth attic, shown here (awaiting final paint, and floor refinishing). The top floor measures 37' X 16', is rife with closets, and complete with bath.

We've debated how to stage such an immense space. Michelle, the owner, thinks it'll be used by the next owner(s) as a "master suite". With four large bedrooms on the second floor, I'm betting it'll be a home theatre or game room. Steve, the contractor, jokingly campaigns for a bowling alley.

The FF

I believe in arts education. I take my son to see music, theatre, and the Marx Brothers. We've buzzed free nights at MOCA and the Hammer, and last month we visited the Getty's Courbet show.

I think an appreciation of the old masters is important: Rembrandt, Caravaggio, El Greco, Jack Kirby.

Recently we were rummaging through the attic heirlooms, mostly silver-age Marvel, and we rediscovered this fabulous multi-part Fantastic Four comic adventure: A House There Was. In it the Fantastic Four go househunting!

Reed (the egg-headed Mr. Fantastic) and Sue (the wannabe domestic Invisible Girl) are concerned about security and schools. Meanwhile, Johnny The Human Torch (who hot-rods around in alternative fuel vehicles with his Inhuman girl-friend and Native American roommate) opines about suburban facelessness and the criminal sterility of large, earth-moving redevelopment projects.

Wow, even comic book characters in 1969 were hip to the value of organic civic environments, not those designed by traffic engineers, power mad g-school planners, or monument seeking aldermen. (Or at least writer Stan Lee was hip to Jane Jacobs. Please see archives.)

I've got to keep reading. Maybe there's an issue where the Human Torch moves to a Utopian community, heats his own bath water, persuades Crystal to douse his organic plantings, and strips texcote with his flame.

Woof Roof

I'm a walker. Out with the son, out late with the dog, sometimes with others.






I certainly get barked at, by dogs, behind fences, in front yards. If a dog's going to bark at anything that moves, s/he ought be kept in the property rear. They're still likely to bark, just at less, heard by fewer.

But dogs on a roof?! This canine pair had me spotted a block away. I've heard of early detection systems, but this is ridiculous and inconsiderate. Particularly as neighboring dogs, cued as if were, continued the shepard serenade.

Here's another intrusion: the peddling pork rindadora. Apparently she thinks there's a corollary between horn volume and sales volume, because she works the handle bar horn like it's a blood pressure cuff.

What am I angling for? Noise ordinances. New York City just updated its code, with special mention of Ice Cream trucks and monster-bass car audio systems.

If Koch could enforce the pooper scooper, I figure Bloomberg's got a shot with Mr. Softee.

Coming Soon: Hooray for High Gas Prices--No More Ice Cream Trucks

Hooray for High Gas Prices--No More Ice Cream Trucks

In my Los Angeles neighborhood the ice cream trucks, despite the lenghtening days, the completion of many school schedules, and the building heat, are absent--what a relief!

I'm sure the hill toppers must think me an awful grouch, celebrating the demise of the Good Humor Man, of American tradition, and summer staple. But when you live in the basin, in "the grid", on a residential street with slower-moving traffic--the ice cream colporteurs are constant. Push carts with bells, converted econolines and vanagons, blanketed in product stickers, or backyard stenciling, streaming sirenous ditties from make-shift audio systems like "Pop Goes the Weasel", or "B-I-N-G-O", luring children to the dairy moonshine of Chocotacos or banana-less splits. For shame.

During peak summer hours, two or three trucks, can sometimes be seen idling up and down the long blocks of the St. Vincent College tract, their big grey frames like so many Walrus on a mating-crazed beach, trolling for packs of complicit, caramel-crazed youth. "Go forth and pressure your conflict averse parents", the icy ayatollahs encourage.

The food pyramid inverted, its tomb raided, the family dinner highjacked, undermined, undone by the pharoahs of fat and the frozen feast. But, no longer! They've been driven from their den like a pack of hunted wolves--by soaring petrol prices, and, and....and....

Maybe the Republicans really are for family values.